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View Full Version : DIY AC to DC conversion of device



bilalinamdar
12-03-2010, 01:26 PM
Hello first of all i am a beginner and i need to do this project for my home automation.
I have done some mods in the past successfully
But here it is mod related question

http://tinyurl.com/2fngmjs

it worked on 12v DC adaptor of (Directly Applied to the Bridge DC+ OUT AND DC- OUT) but the output Is not getting it i mean out put must be atleast 6v (to switch relay) (Obviously i disconnected the AC IN)

vikas
12-03-2010, 02:27 PM
The IR receiver has the following config

http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Interface/tsop1838.gif

The center trance is the gnd, hack accordingly :) . Put in 5V on VCC and Gnd trace should work...

bilalinamdar
12-03-2010, 07:00 PM
thank you sir

bilalinamdar
12-03-2010, 08:28 PM
Hello again
the thing is working but the only problem now is
When the ir turn on than it power 6v relay it works and the line also work

I just want the system to do (This is pc power switch only control)
1) Power On (click)
2) Shutdown (click)
3) Hard Reset (Long press)

What happens now is that when i press button on remote the circuit gets complete and it stay complete which in return hard reset the pc also when in windows it hard reset when the button is pressed what i had to do is press the button two times after a sec gap.

Now it does it
(button press)click------- (1sec or less gap)----- (button press)click
I want it to do

1) (button press)click
2) (button press)click
3) I don't know how hard reset will be done


Kindly advice something

vikas
12-04-2010, 02:50 AM
Does this remember the last state ? if device is reset ...

Can you show me the bottom side PCB of the relay ?

bilalinamdar
12-04-2010, 02:21 PM
Does this remember the last state ? if device is reset ...

Can you show me the bottom side PCB of the relay ?


Yes the device(ir outler) keep last state in the memory after disconnecting power

The snapshot is very bad but i marked some points ( i don't have digicam)
Do remember that the Yellow line indicated there is actually on the 6v relay which is not yet connected to the pcb (i thought to dismantle it after few experiment). The onboard relay is 12v so it doesn't switch atall on 5v stb power

vikas
12-04-2010, 04:41 PM
Will need better pic , but if it remembers last state i dought hacking would work.

A simpler solution would be to program a cheap 2051 and use it instead ... you can program it to behave the way you want.

bilalinamdar
12-04-2010, 05:13 PM
Will need better pic , but if it remembers last state i dought hacking would work.

A simpler solution would be to program a cheap 2051 and use it instead ... you can program it to behave the way you want.


Here is good quality photo (i can't get better than this)
http://www.picstation.net/gallery.php?id=7a80afb47d13c58818cd40c7fc569cc2
Do remember it is little bit different from the original showcase version from the website i provided. The schematic is changed and there is 1 extra capacitor applied behind the IR. (this is not included in other ir outlet but it doesn't concern me)

Please can u guide me in the right direction

1)AT89C2051 Is the Micro controller u are talking abt (2051) http://www.onlinetps.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70_120&products_id=229 Please confirm
2) can i use this sp12 programmer with this mc or is there any diy programmer ?
3) Any manual on how to do it ( i used sp12 programmer before i just need a guide for the new one coding and stuff)
4) Also can i use it on Attiny 2313 or attiny 2323 in my situation ?
5) 555 timer can't help in my situation ?

vikas
12-05-2010, 12:11 PM
If you have not developed with uC's before i recommend you go with arduino. 2051 is the cheapest uC around so it was recommended.

With arduino you will just have to get appropriate libraries and use them ... no much coding for your project.

bilalinamdar
12-05-2010, 02:21 PM
I don't think that any ic is needed it is too much for this (But i will purchase it for learning purpose this is my hobby)

I just did the connection to the switch (The tact switch on in the image on front) and it is working but only Hard reset is remaining... (ONLY ON PROTOTYPE NOT IN ACTUAL)

Working things
1) Power On (click)
2) Shutdown (click)
Both are more than enough no problem

<B>PROBLEM:</B>

When i connected this thing on actual PC smps and motherboard. The PC didn't boot (the cpu fan was rotating but no screen display)
So i check the power on the POWER JUMPER of the Motherboard
it was giving 5v that is not good i want this line current FREE how to do it ? Will zener Diode work ? I have 5v zener diode ( i also have 3.3v)
How can i filter the current from the line and still make the circuit
(REMEMBER THE RELAY ON THE CHIP IS 12V I am doing work on 6v relay which is not in the picture)
http://www.picstation.net/show-image.php?id=e24352cc870e0c55cf66b27f200ffcb8
Q.
Q. Can u just suggest me one thing the IR used is 1835 which is not efficient for long distance any suggestion on that part ? I have 1738 will it work in place of this ? Or any other IR (remember the dc power is 5v)
Q. Also is there any wire splicer in india (mumbai) http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/quick_splice.jpg like this one which doesn't need cutting etc?

vikas
12-06-2010, 12:58 PM
When i connected this thing on actual PC smps and motherboard. The PC didn't boot (the cpu fan was rotating but no screen display)
So i check the power on the POWER JUMPER of the Motherboard
it was giving 5v that is not good i want this line current FREE how to do it ? Will zener Diode work ? I have 5v zener diode ( i also have 3.3v)
How can i filter the current from the line and still make the circuit
(REMEMBER THE RELAY ON THE CHIP IS 12V I am doing work on 6v relay which is not in the picture)
Did not understand what you are trying to do .

1. 1835 is not at fault , but the decoding circuit / you can amplify remotes signal by attaching more LEd's .
2. Never used or felt the need for one. so cant really tell.

bilalinamdar
12-06-2010, 10:23 PM
Did not understand what you are trying to do .


okay here i will explain it again

-------------------------
Main logic
The IR DEVICE by default function
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNiXobjMOtM
-------------------------

Here is the switch i am talking abt (pic of the switch on pcb)
http://www.picstation.net/show-image.php?id=7d3c0cb884a886e8e907a31fe95cd513

---------------------
Here is the back of the switch. I connected the switch to the relay so that when a connection is made (of the blue wire) this yellow wires will work as disconnecting or turn it off (because if u press switch button it will function as ON / off, If u keep it pressed than u can programme it for new Ir remote button)
http://www.picstation.net/show-image.php?id=e24352cc870e0c55cf66b27f200ffcb8

Now if u see the above picture correctly u will see that the Yellow Wire (by default) contains +5v dc which is bad for the blue wire. I want the Blue and yellow wire CLEAN no pulse on them just connect disconnect..because when the +5v go to pwr jumper of the motherboard the motherboard detects it and it doesn't boot.. or doesn't turn on...
this is happening only after adding yellow line. It works on the test bed (because the +5v doesn't affect any thing) but when i put the circuit in pc the pc doesn't boot..Kindly suggest anything to remove the voltage from the yellow OR the blue line (main concern). This is my last request kindly help.

bilalinamdar
12-08-2010, 07:36 PM
hey dude u there ?